Water, Trees, Mountains - These are my favourite things

Tugela River Lodge, a couple of hours drive from home seemed to be a perfect spot for a retreat, to relax but with plenty to keep us active if inclined

Each cottage is fenced for a pet friendly experience. Nestled on the eastern bank of the Tugela river, Rapids Cottage is aptly named, sleeps 2 adults and 2 children in a compact unit. Totally off the grid, power is supplied via solar and gas

An island splits the river under our deck and the glorious sound of water cascading over rapids is enough to entrance one on arrival

The bedroom is wonderfully situated to the front of the cottage with double doors opening up onto the deck and the river beyond. The well stocked kitchen and bathroom is to the back and cool in the afternoons. A sharp flight of stairs takes the kids upstairs to a loft bunk room

An appreciating addition to the main room is a fire place for those cooler nights

We are welcomed by Bheki and supplied with ample fire wood for the braai and fire place

After settling in, we go exploring, first challenge, getting over the cable bridge

Not far down the track is a colony of white-breasted bee eaters, and I am beside myself with excitement to be witness to the activity of the breeding season. I will be back to spend quality time with these beautiful birds

A lovely shady spot for fishing or wile away the time at the waters edge

Heading further along the river, the forest is melodious with birdsong and I spot a favourite dancing through the branches, the tiny paradise fly catcher, I am ecstatic!

The riverine forest can be walked or cycled, cool and alluring, it is full of life and I'm in my element, I have never heard and seen such a variety of birds in a small area (this section of forest is sandwiched between the R600 and the river)

Back home, a cool drink in hand, listening to and watching the bird activity, this weaver lands on the tree near our deck and proceeds to forage on the bark, something unknown to us. I am dazzled by its color, thought it to be the common masked weaver but its a spottedbacked weaver, a new bird sighting and what a beauty

These huge pepper trees will provide much needed shade for those hot summer afternoons, but today it's a chilly 14 deg and an inside fire will definitely be lit

Out of the woodpile, a huge gogga

The 3 mountain bike routes offered at the lodge form part of the Berg and Bush Mountain Bike Challenge which starts at the top of the Oliviershoek Pass (border Free State and KZN) and ends near Winterton), offering 2 or 3 days of presumably incredible biking. We tackle the blue route on our first morning

Cycling through the forest, under the R600 drainage bridge and into a game reserve, we are grateful for the cool, overcast weather

There is a smattering of green from last weeks rains but overall the earth is parched

Aloes abound here, I hear birdsong, wondering while trying to stay on the path, whether the calls are sugarbirds or sunbirds

Soon I'm not concentrating on birds....

We climb and climb, stop for a breather and skirt this settlement, onward to a greater view of the valley below but before we get there, this ox wagon halts us. Spioenkop Mountain was the site of a bloody British battle to regain Ladysmith in the second Boer War in January 1900

The boers on Spioenkop 1900. The battle was fought on the 23/4 January

The reward for our efforts, well worth it

As you know, what does up must come down....

There are a lot of eyes on us, what are they thinking? Will they make it down in one piece me thinks?

Trying really hard not to come-a-cropper

We make it down the tricky part without incident and soak in more view

A hearty breakfast is enjoyed as we chat about our first authentic mountain bike ride and then I set off for some quiet time with some special friends

Feeding chicks is a full time job and luckily these bee eaters have abundant food. They don't have to go very far to pluck a bug out of the air

I have never tried this type of photography before and was ill prepared for the difficulty of the challenge (photographs are not very good) but I thoroughly enjoyed the experience

Back home a giant kingfisher shows itself below the deck before plunging into the river below to catch its lunch

Our second cycle was to be an easy one, down a dusty farm road but it turned pie-shaped within 1km so we headed back up the mountain on the red route which follows the same track up the mountain to the settlement. From there we cycle a lovely route towards the saddle of twin mountains, enjoying the scenery which could resemble the Mara

The reserve has approximately 23 giraffe, we were in the right place at the right time to see the tiniest of them

We are quite a bit higher than yesterday, the view is spectacular. 6 vultures soar past us, reminding me of mini antonov's, circle a couple times before disappearing. Wow!

Descending this section of the mountain is going to be fun, must have all my wits about me...

The track zig zags down the steepest first stretch

Here we see the Tugela River looping around farmlands

One of many tight corners where the back wheel tends to slip out from under you if you're not careful, no time to be checking out the scenery, concentrate!

A fun dip, climb and sharp turn

Ah, a stretch to unclench the hands and muscles

This section take the rider around the front of the mountain, utterly enthralling, presenting different challenges

Over yonder is the Spioenkop dam, the tugela flows into it and out again on its journey to the sea

Whoops, stopping for a quick snap

Almost home, what a fantastic cycle, I don't want it to end!

Back on the birding trail and I capture a Pin-tailed Whydah, another first (it doesn't matter how bad your birding photographs may be, as long as it helps with identification, especially when the binoculars have been forgotten at home)

With far too much exploring to do in so little time, I leave someone reading and head into the forest

Listen to the trees as they sway in the wind. Their leaves are telling secrets, Their bark sings songs of olden days as it grows around the trunks, and their roots give names to all things. Their language has been lost but not the gestures

Nothing quite like an African sunset

This morning we ditch our bikes for walking shoes. The area that we've been cycling in is also part of the famous Oxpecker, a 2 day trail run consisting of a 20km up-the-mountain-and-back-down and a 16km easier day running next to the river and through farmlands

In my opinion, cycling is much harder than walking, and I really don't think I'd have made it up 'Everest' on a bike

"The earth reflects the sky and the sky meets the earth and, every now and then, if we're lucky, we have a moment to see how small we are" (author: Ally Condie)

Trekking back along the blue route, one sees so much more walking and you never get tired of the views...

...Or of the curious Giraffe

I am wondering at the stark contrast in vegetation of these two mountains?

A little bit of pretty in the dry veld

Hiking is the answer. Who cares what the question is

Bulbuls pair for life. They show a tenderness towards each other that I find so special to watch. These are the blackeyed bulbul

The kingfisher is back, I think its a female as I can't see any chestnut coloring one the chest

Fire in the pit echoed in the evening sky

Our last cycle, we tackle the red route again and find we have already adapted and enjoy the experience considerably more. A herd of red hartebeest on the plateau enjoying the green shoots that pop up after a burn

After the harshness of the mountain stretch, its an absolute pleasure finishing off in the forest

Weaver nests hang like lanterns in the trees

Groundscraper thrushes usually hunt on the ground. I tailed this one all week but never got to see the nest or chick. What a hard working parent

I can't get enough of the bee eaters, their flying abilities are incredibly entertaining

A bearded woodpecker makes an appearance and this is a female with the black and white speckled head

Could this be a greater honeyguide? The temperature soared today, the poor bird was exhausted and panted on the branch for what seemed ages before recovering and taking off

"I am so pretty". Yes you are, and thank you for for sitting still for a second cape wagtail

Lovely light shows off the color of your tail flycatcher

It is life, to watch the water a person can learn so many things

At last, sitting still for a moment

Paradise flycatcher females have shorter tails than the males. This one is really giving me the eyeball and then politely turns her back on me. What a beautiful bird

A lovely whitebellied sunbird taking a breather. Once again I am astonished at the diversity of birdlife in this forest

Another walk takes me on a new path and I discover a cave at the bottom of a dry river bed

How many years, possibly billions, is this formation?

What an amazing site this would be for another cottage or camp!

The forest keeps drawing me back in, filling me with energy

Quietly watching the goings on, this flycatcher came to bath, left before I could raise the camera but came back a little later for another splash, photos are terrible but the bathing process is spellbinding

Hug a tree, it increases the levels of hormone oxytocin which can make you feel happier

The absolute marvel of a dragonfly's wings

Maybe I've been spending too much time in the forest, can you see a face on the tree?

This southern rock agama poses for a photo. What's he doing up a tree? They are usually found on rocky outcrops

Cape robin-chat has an incredible range of whistles and we are treated to a concert. Utter sweetness

A lovely addition to the lodge is the chicken coup and veggie garden where guests can help themselves to fresh eggs daily and pick some salad greens

"Total immersion in the wilderness is the purest and most natural of all therapies and best of all, you don't have to do anything except BE there. The sights and sounds are remedies for the soul, while the scents of the african bush are natures original aromatheraphy" (Lawrence Anthony - The Last Rhino)

Tugela River Lodge does just that, with a flowing river, a riverine forest chockablock full of bird life and a mountain that tests the biker or hiker. That is IF you want to do more than be here

Thank you Bheki and Thoko for taking care of routine chores so we can relax, and Julian, we enjoyed the daily chats, learning more about the area, farm, and future developments you have planned. (ps: and for the very gracious way in which you handled our exiting mishap) We hope to return in the future and tackle paddling the river